photo Matthew West/ Boston Herald
Last night I attended a forum hosted by Mass General Hopitals’s Harris Center for Education and Advocacy in Eating Disorders featuring a panel of hosts that included Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue (for the 2 of you who may not know her by name), designer Michael Kors and supermodel Natalia Vodianova. The topic was health and wellness in the fashion industry, and more specifically, how the fashion world, in all it’s reed thin glory, plans to change the shape of fashion. Literally. I of course, was beyond excited to see Anna and Michael in person, being a superfan of Vogue, The September Issue, Devil Wears Prada and Project Runway. But closer to my heart is the subject of eating disorders. As many of you know from a couple previous posts and article for Huffington Post, I am a recovered anorexic and am eternally interested in current research and ways I can help to support the cause of finding, if not a cure, a better way to treat this vicious disease.
Let’s start with Anna though, because I know you want to know. In she walks, looking almost like someone dressed up in an Anna Wintour costume. Here sharp bob so severe, her famously thin frame covered up by a billowy trench coat, zebra patterned full skirted dress, tights and a BLINDINGLY beautiful necklace. She was, in the flesh, exactly how she looks in photos and on screen. Many people have commented how odd it is to have someone who is so painfully thin (not to mention the purveyor of the “heroin chic” imagery we all see in Vogue) commenting on eating disorders. I agree to a point, but can’t comment on Anna herself. I don’t know if she has an eating problem or if she is just naturally very skinny. I am not a doctor and can’t judge her based on how she looks- there are plenty of women who are naturally very thin in this world and she may be one of them. What I can say is that she does seem to be putting in effort, with the CFDA’s Health initiative, into changing the guidelines for models that work the runways (no models under 16, not employing girls who are known to be sick, no smoking or alcohol backstage, changing the size 0 sample size). Anna clearly spoke with conviction about wanting to change the concave stomach and jutting collarbone imagery we see, but truthfully admitted that transforming an empire as large and powerful as the fashion industry will take time and baby steps. She spoke about the disconnect between the reality of the clothing that goes out to the market and the sample items they receive for shoots. She talked about the fact that size 4 samples have been downsized to be smaller than what used to be a size 0 and how, as an editor, these items simply wont fit a healthier sized model. It takes teamwork, and the designers themselves are going to have to produce larger sample sizes so that the models we see wearing their clothing on the pages of Vogue don’t look like they are about to fall over and perish. Clearly thought, the woman to demand that change is Anna. So my question is, if she truly is so behind this change, why doesn’t she take a stand and say she won’t use or publish any samples smaller that a certain size so she can use, say, size 6 models? If you’ve seen September Issue you know the extreme power she has over these designers and if she demanded that, they would scramble to change the sample size in a heartbeat. End of discussion, right? Seems like a big part of the solution to me, but perhaps I’m simplifying it too much.
Michael Kors ( whom I *pink puffy heart* adore) spoke about this issue from a designers perspective and was quite candid about it. He said he’s delighted to see that real adult women are back in style- models in their 40′s like Elle McPhearson back on the runways! He said he’s never interested in projecting an unhealthy image to the women he wants to buy his clothes, and I agree. I think Michael Kors has a much more mature, all American kind of beauty associated with his label. But then he then made a grandiose statement declaring he would “not ever again use a model under the age of…16″ Huh? My friend Sarah and I looked at each other and we both were like “I thought he was gonna say 18 after all that business about ‘adults being back in vogue!!!’” 16 is still a child! A girl of 16 can barely drive, can’t vote, can’t get into a friggin’ R rated movie! This is exactly why it’s going to take so long for the imagery of women we see in fashion to change. A model of 16 will still have the body of a child, because she is a child- so when a woman of 35 sees her in the pages of Vogue modeling an outfit she loves and it makes her feel crappy about herself, it’s because it’s an unfair visual to publish to the public that is actually buying the clothes and the magazines. A 16 year old is NOT wearing Michel Kors to school, now are they? They are wearing Express jeans and Team Edward t-shirts (ok, so are some 30 year olds…ahem)
The one speaker who I thought was touching and truly understanding of the severity of the illness and what needs to be done was Natalia. Having been under the scrutiny of the industry for so long and having battled an eating disorder, she spoke sweetly about how hard it is to have a job where you “put your self worth in other people’s hands. People who don’t care about you”. She also spoke off the cuff about having an eating disorder after she was pregnant and how there were “little voices and gremlins in her head” telling her not to eat. I was floored ot hear her admit this publicly because I’ve always had a hard time talking about that fact because I thought it sounded so completely insane and impossible for people who haven’t been sick to understand. But it’s true. When in the trenches with an eating disorder it’s almost as if there are two dialogs going on in your head- your weakened normal mind and then the steely resolve of the eating disorder telling you you shouldn’t eat this, you aren’t worth that, you need to keep your body “pure of food”. It’s terrifying. Still, it is hard to relate to a supermodel who is tall, gorgeous and very thin, as pointed out by an audience member. These three panelist have the platform to help make a change, but the reality of eating disorders is so far from their glamorous existences that it was hard to connect to them in a real way. Another model, Doutzen Kroes was there, who, when she walked in totally grasped your attention with her beauty but also caused me to exclaim “she looks like a real woman!” Not bone thin at all, but a glowing, natural beauty with curves in all the right places- it turns out she’s been rejected by most high fashion designers lately for being “too fat”. That absolutely slayed me, because, well- just look at her:
First of all, she’s thin. Secondly, she’s healthy looking. Thirdly, most women would kill to have her figure. The average American woman is a size 14, so at a size 6, Doutzen is still thin, so why is she considered “too fat” to sell clothing to the purchasing public???? Talk about a disconnect! Seeing her and hearing from her on the video we viewed had more of an impact on me than hearing from the other panelists because it so obviously illustrated the absurdity of the industry standard size 0.
The whole forum ended up feeling a bit like a dog and pony show where the focus was on having these super famous people there and less about the dark reality of eating disorders, in the fashion world and in the real world. When asked what they think the runways will look like (body size wise) in three years, Anna and Michael guffawed loudly and said “darling, in fashion, 3 years is like 30 years, who knows- lets just focus on the progress made tonight”. That frivolous blow off of a really good question left a pretty lousy taste in my mouth and made me feel like this was all just a giant PR campaign for them and the CFDA and less about the amazing work the Harris Center is doing to affect real change and create hope to those who are battling this complicated and baffling disease that has the highest mortality rate of ANY mental illness.
In all honesty, the fact that skinny models grace the pages of fashion magazines is not exactly causing us, as a nation, to wither away to nothing. We have quite the opposite problem, in fact. And someone is not going to “catch” anorexia by admiring the willowy limbs of Kate Moss in a fashion spread. Eating disorders are a disease with biological and psychological components and it takes many factors to create the perfect storm in which one develops. When I became sick the women I thought were beautiful (Cindy Crawford, Nicki Taylor, the cast of 90210, embarrassingly enough) weren’t sickly looking, emaciated girls. They were healthy, and yet I starved myself nearly to death. So while I applaud the CFDA and Vogue for addressing this issue, I’ll hold my real applause when I actually see a true change. In the meantime, I’d rather lavish my praise on those at the Harris Center for doing the REAL work.
erin – i’m so happy you are healthy. i wish sample sizes were 10′s and not 0′s. i agree with you – anna wintour has tons of power she could change it all if she wanted to. [but perhaps she too wants to continue to wear those sample sizes after all she has access to the best closet in the world eh?!!]
It’s rather what I expected would happen: placating readers and stock-holders, who hold sway in the Depression, but continuing along as before. I feel that as long as Vogue will get away with it, they will. There are literally thousands of gorgeous sixteen (and younger!) girls without apparent eating disorders whose bulgeless thighs and hips make Ralph Lauren gowns flow like water on the runway. I do, however, disagree with the 16 year-old cutoff. When I was a model in New York, I was almost done my career by sixteen! Even I can see the logistics for young models: when they photograph, there’s a gorgeous lack of hardness in their faces, softness, etherealness that gets lost. My 21 year-old face wouldn’t photograph with the same grace as my fifteen year-old one.
Great post.
As someone who is 31 and not a size 0, I have no desire to see children in my magazines. I actually always look forward to the shape edition of Vogue each spring when they feature all types of bodies – short, tall, curvy, skinny, athletic, even pregnant. While I never think an ematiated, unhealthy frame should be the celebrated standard, I wish all women were more equally represented. I look back to how at one point the fashion industry had significant reluctance to even feature a person of color on magazine covers, and laugh about how silly that was. Maybe this issue is just the next hurdle for fashion to scale. Discussions and forums, like last nights, with fashion’s heaviest hitters can be a great start.
Erin, Thanks for the detailed post and being so candid with your personal battles. I really admire how forth-coming you were. I think you made many great points about the fashion industry and it’s up to each of us to filter out what’s normal and what’s not. So glad you were able to attend the panel and report back to us all.
such a beautiful and real post. I too went through times where eating made me sick. Now I concentrate on being healthy and strong. After having 2 babies I am the smallest I have been in awhile. I think I finally just let it go and I fell into place. Being truly happy helps too. thank you for sharing.
I’m so glad you wrote about this because I think it’s important for someone like you who reaches a lot of people to basically tell it like it is…and I think any forum on eating disorders and the way women are portrayed in the fashion industry with Anna involved has the potential to say “we are changing this now!” And yet as you pointed out, they didn’t say that. They talked about what should be done, it sounds, but not about actually doing it (Michael with your 16yr olds). Kinda makes me want to call “bullsh*t”. I’d love to see healthier women, have always admired the Kate Winslets, Sophie Dahls, Penelope Cruz’, and Doutzen- hot hot hot.
First of all let me say you are tremendously brave in speaking so personally about something so many women struggle with on so many different levels. You are also brave to share your very candid opinions on the speakers. In sharing your experience and opinions, you are doing a great deal to combat this all too familiar problem. Second, Anna Wintour should be ashamed. All she has to do is to demand sample sizes come in a more realistic size. No size 4 sample, no feature in Vogue. She revolutionizes the fashion industry every year, and yet claims she cannot do that? Perhaps I am missing something.
Thank you, Erin, for this thoughtful post and for highlighting this “weighty subject”. Unfortunately, the weight-debate extends far beyond the fashion industry and feeds into ALL women’s self-image problems. Have you heard about Charla Krupp’s latest book? Her first was “How Not to Look Old”, and her new one is “How Not to Look Fat”. And in it, in order to illustrate how not to “look fat”, she uses “plus-sized models”….who are size 8 and 10. (???!!!!) This is just fueling the fire of women’s negative self-perceptions even more.
I love your honest opinion about how you percieved this event. Doutzen Kroes is gorgeous. I would so rather look at some curves, that are sexy. Versus collar bones and weird knee joints! Somethings gotta give…
Thanks for this great post. But I want to point out that we can all “vote with our wallets”. If a company or media source promotes something we don’t believe in, we can simply choose not support them. If designers don’t want to cut for my size 6 body and magazines don’t have the backbones to show images closer to the American reality, then I simply don’t have time to patronize them.
As a woman who has struggled with anorexia (and assorted knock-on health effects as a result), I am very sensitive to these images. I am also constantly amazed that designers cut for the bodies of adolescent girls instead of for the bodies of adult women who actually have the money to spend on expensive clothing.
Great review Erin! I was looking forward to what you would have to say. While I think that the forum was a step in the right directions, I think there in a certain confirmation that you pointed out that the people who can enact the greatest change are not working towards it at their full potential. Part of me thinks that they are still living on some alternate planet from the rest of us who see it as it really is. It’s unfortunate. Its great that you have been so candid on this platform, and in your review. There is so much to be learned from an outspoken and inspirational woman like you! Keep up the great work!
Very real and informative post. I recently saw a friend’s child develop this horrible illness at 12, which definitely convinced me of the reality of it all. I know very little about it however, but it saddens me to hear this forum was more of a show. I do not think you’re oversimplifying at all when it comes to Anna WIntour’s complete say over the industry. She could make a difference, but ultimately business is business I guess. Boo.
Great post Erin!
AWESOME POST!!!
I tried for hours to get a ticket to this forum, but alas, they were sold out, so I’m happy to hear that maybe I didn’t miss anything too revolutionary. However, like those above, I applaud your honesty on this amazingly idiotic topic. I too have anorexia and have been in and out of treatment since l was eight years-old, and battle to this day with those evil voices in my head telling me, “no, fatty, you can’t have that, you didn’t run your five miles this morning, or if you gain one more pound or inch…” well, you know, sadly. Anyway, I know the fashion industry isn’t to blame for many people having an ED, but l don’t think it helps, either. I used to model when I was younger and quit during college because agencies told me I’d have to shrink my already thin frame of 110 to something around 95, and then when they pinched my hips and thighs and sighed (yea, this didn’t help to quite those voices, but only made them scream!), l knew I’d never be a model.
The whole issue of being insanely thin is an old one; most women have always had the inane desire to be small, to feel delicate, but still remain powerful which is a total hypocritical way of looking at oneself, but I find it to be true. Most days, l wake up and say a silent prayer, that my size 24 jeans still fit, and that my restricting will magically make the scale read lower than yesterday, and this will empower me somehow, but l know this for sure, when l see those emaciated 16 year-old girls, those hip bones jutting put from underneath those gorgeous clothes, walking down the runways, or screaming at me from the glossy pages, it makes me feel like l’m an ugly, fat mess. I like being thin, absolutely, but it would be amazing to see a 5’5′, 130 pound, size 8 woman walk for Chanel too! ;)
Really great post. It was incredibly interesting to read about each individual’s perspective. Maybe raising the age of models to 18 would enact some change. I read an article the other day that models in France must be 18 or they are limited in the hours they can work. It seems like a great way to begin to enact change in the bodies we see in fashion spreads and a safety net for younger models. I always love seeing Doutzen Kroes on magazines, and the fashion world went wild over Louis Vuitton’s more womenly models for the AW10 show. Maybe these small changes will have a lasting impact.
Also, I haven’t received my copy of this month’s Vogue yet, but I did find this article online about the CFDA’s Health Initiative’s in relation to Kim Noorda: http://www.vogue.com/feature/2010/03/kim-noorda/. It’s a very interesting perspective on life as a model.
Erin, this is a truly fabulous post. I love your insight into the discussion and agree that it seems like more of a publicity stunt than a real effort at creating change. Thank you for sharing all of your experiences with us! Perhaps this will inspire people to support the Harris Center.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said the tastemakers, the Anna Wintours of the world, can be the ones to affect change. And so can we. I don’t buy Vogue, Elle or Harpers or any of those magazines because I just can’t relate to the images displayed in them. I can’t picture myself wearing most of those garments because I know I won’t look anything llike that. And kudos to you for being courageous and sharing your experience.
Wonderfully written! I’ve never commented before and I’m not much into fashion (I’m a stay-at-home mom who wears mostly GAP), but I think you hit the nail on the head. I’m glad you were able to make it to the forum, and I appreciate you sharing the experience with us. I hope (and suspect) that many influential people will read this post, and I’m glad.
PS- Love your blog!
thank you for your thoughts! i think it’s sooo important that we set examples of healthiness for young girls today. let’s focus on eating well and moving our bodies so we feel confident and happy. i too struggled with anorexia and bulimia for years and have made it my goal to emphasize being healthy no matter what size you are, to my two daughters. thanks again!
I read your HuffPo article. Thank you for your unique insight into this problem. I hope that the fashion industry will make dramatic changes – they are desperately needed.
Erin, thank you so much for your honest post.
Although I haven’t suffered from an eating disorder myself, my oldest daughter suffered through anorexia at 16 years of age. We, my husband, our youngest dauther and myself, suffered with her and at times felt helpless, as she did, in our battle. We are eternally grateful to a local children’s hospital for their amazing Eating Disorders program – their program literally saved her life, although alot of credit goes to our daughter herself – it took an amazing amount of hard work for her to get herself well!
Having been through this as a family supporting our child, we are solidly behind any program that will work for treatment of this disease. It is disappointing to hear the fashion industry’s attempt at addressing this issue fell so short, but you are right in your assessment – it’s not the fashion industry that is going to fix the problem – it’s the numerous hospital programs and advocacy groups that will make the difference. That is where we need to direct funding and support.
Thanks again for your honesty and insight.
Amen! As another ED survivor, I’m baffled by the lack of action on Anna’s part. She has the power.
It’s funny…I just thought about it and I haven’t bought a fashion magazine in years. I guess I recognized the hypocrisy of those magazines at some point.
Wow! what a great blog topic!!
Thanks for all of your reporting, and honesty!!
It all is really quite a farce is it not? I cant believe they think the one model is fat!! OMG!!! that gets me so mad!!
~Vanessa
RhinestoneContessa.com
“I’m baffled by the lack of action on Anna’s part. She has the power.”
While image is important (to an extent) EDs are all psychological. Woman with EDs tend to be competitive, perfectionist and/or have sensitive natures and come from an enmeshed family dynamic. They can’t be prevented but early intervention by family and medical professionals is hugely important.
Anna Wintour, Vogue Magazine, and the industry have so little to do with that. They may be a reflection of society but we’re talking about a MENTAL illness and family and individual dynamics. Weighty, indeed.
I always look forward to reading your blog. On this subject, I would like to offer another point of view: I have always been naturally thin, and I am frustrated to the point of tears when I read the ugly and negative things that are written about thin girls/models – such as calling them unhealthy and emaciated. Although my problem is the opposite of many women, I can assure you that people’s hurtful comments and rude questions harm thin girls just as much as they would overweight ones. Comments such as “you look like you’ve been in a concentration camp” or “don’t you ever eat?” were devastating to me growing up. It was so humiliating to be asked if I was anorexic. I could never find clothes that fit. I was painfully aware of stares everywhere I went. Someone even suggested once that I should never wear shorts in public. As I became an adult, the comments seemed to lessen, until I learned that people had just become more polite – they talked about me behind my back instead.
Now, as a mother, I have sat in the school gym and overheard adults around me laugh, point, and make fun of my thin daughter. My 14 year old, who iis 5’5″ and weighs 110, actually hates her body and cries herself to sleep thanks to her friends’ relentless comments about her “chicken legs” and speculation about her weight (“bet you don’t even weigh 100 lbs”!) Her self-image has plummeted and she rejects numerous cute outfits each morning because she is convinced they look horrible on her because she is “too skinny”. She thinks she is abnormal, because she can’t walk into a store with her friends and buy jeans, since 2-long is only available online. It breaks my heart to see my lovely daughter going through the same anguish and feelings of isolation that I did.
So, while I agree that it would be nice if a variety of body types were represented in fashion magazines, please realize that thin is a body type. Bias cuts both ways, and those of us who are naturally thin would appreciate the same compassion you would offer any other woman.
Erin,
I just read the article you wrote for the Huffington Post. My sister became anorexic at 19 and has lived with this disease for twenty years. As a family we have been very confused about what caused her to become anorexic. The research I have done always lists emotional or physical abuse as the main causes of this disease. My sister is hard pressed to admit she has a problem even after she was forced into treatment by her doctors after reaching a terrifying weight of 67 pounds at 5’4″. It really struck me that you said in the Huffington Post article that you had a great family and parents and that they had nothing to do with your disease. I have always felt deep down that something awful must have happened to my sister to cause all of this…. As a family we feel immense guilt that we haven’t been able to help my sister. And have searched our past and our souls for a reason why she has become so ill. It has been a fruitless search and my sister pushes us all away every time we try to reach out to her.
Because she was an adult when this all started we were told by social workers and eating disorder clinics that short of having her declared “incompetent” by a court of law that there was nothing we could do.
I have wondered many times if I could understand the “why’s” if I would be better equipped to help my sister. If you have any insight into why this happened to you I would be so grateful if you would be willing to share with me so that I could be better equipped to understand and help her.
Again thanks for sharing your story. It is inspiring to know that there are success stories and people who can fully recover from this horrible illness.
Heather
Reading this has left me proud. Proud that there are women out there who have also fought and WANT to see a change. I know and have met so many young girls and women who still let this disease hold a spot within them even after they’ve leaped the black hole. I hope a change arises someday. Until then, we’ve got to do what we can on our own and hope the rest of the world wakes up and joins us on our ride through life as it should be.
Hi Erin,
Thanks for such a candid, honest and objective post. As someone with an ED it is nice to read something that hasn’t been totally sensationalized! That doesn’t happen often in my experience.
Won’t get too much into my personal details here, but I will say that my recovery so far has been pretty much on my own; I have yet to meet any professional who has helped me deal with this problem effectively (or at all) and have had to figure it out myself. I think I’ve done a pretty good job but I hate knowing that so many people with the same struggles are fighting alone. I’m wondering if you know of any ED recovery organizations or programs that are effective that I could support, financially or otherwise?
I’d really appreciate any feedback. :) Thanks again for being open and honest; you’re an inspiration.
Hi,
I really liked to read your post. So honest.
I’m with you on that JW, bias do cut two ways and being naturally thin (another body type) is different from Anorexia; more people should be aware of this.
Heather -
You should read anything by Hilde Bruch she had AMAZING insight into EDs, esp. Anorexia. Maybe check out “Fasting Girls” and
“Too Scared To Cry” by Lenore Terr and “The Secret Language of Eating Disorders” by Peggy Claude-Pierre. There are some good books on Amazon that are worth a look.
Lastly, an account of a family’s part and dealing with Anorexia. The comments are good too.
Heather -
You should read anything by Hilde Bruch she had AMAZING insight into EDs, esp. Anorexia. Maybe check out “Fasting Girls” and
“Too Scared To Cry” by Lenore Terr and “The Secret Language of Eating Disorders” by Peggy Claude-Pierre. There are some good books on Amazon that are worth a look.
Lastly, an account of a family’s part and dealing with Anorexia. The comments are good too.
http://www.salon.com/life/feature/2003/01/17/anorexic
Sorry for the double post there’s the link!
Erin,
Thank you so much for this post! I actually read it this morning but didn’t have time to comment, but it is extremely thought provoking and it stayed with me for the entire day. At the gym this evening I really questioned my motives… what is driving me so hard to work out? I have a ten month old baby girl and the idea of her turning 1 when I still have the “baby fat” is petrifying. I keep wondering how it will look to others that I haven’t lost the weight yet, and (get this) I am currently a size 6. It’s not until I read this post that I started realizing that I’m trying to get back to a size 2 for all the wrong reasons. And please do not think you are crazy about the gremlins in your head. I feel like I’m trying to battle those voices too, although mine are telling me to eat all the wrong things, and when I do I feel bad about it for the entire day! Not the way I want to live the rest of my life… Anyway, thanks for the post and hopefully the images in the media will change, and if not I guess I will have to make the change for myself.
[...] regulate standards and expectations for models. I hope it makes an impact all over the world. Plus, here is an entry from one of my favorite bloggers, Erin Gates, who was at the event. Stock up on some of these [...]
Erin, thank you for posting this. When I read about the event I really wished that I would be able to make it up to Boston to check it out. I think that the whole weight issue is a very, very tricky subject. There doesn’t seem to be any happy medium. We have people starving themselves to achieve the thin “starlet/model” look, but at the same time have very young children at risk for Diabetes and other harmful diseases because they are so obese. Unfortunately, I think it is going to take many efforts of different types and from different areas for any real progress in the area of body image to be made. For that reason I think that this forum, though they might have skirted the tougher questions, is a good start, as it helps spread awareness and the idea of change.
I actually interned at Vogue for a few months and also work in the fashion industry, and it definitely influenced by self esteem and body image. At first, it caused me to just eat healthier and exercise more, but it has now become an obsession to be able to wear the clothes that I work with. Having gone through model castings during fashion week, I did learn that there definitely is such a thing as “naturally thin.” There are also some models who are scarily thin and clearly torturing themselves to be that way.
I also know that while Anna is certainly influential in the fashion world, a lot of clothing used in magazines is advertiser based, as in, whoever pays the most money in ads for the magazine gets their clothes in. And in trying economic times when the magazine industry is certainly suffering, I’m sure she has much less freedom to just do whatever she wants.
Like I said, it is a very difficult topic. There isn’t one right answer or perfect solution. Maybe the solution is to not attach labels at all, because then there won’t be a label to fit into? I really don’t know. But thank you for posting about this forum and offering your own stories on your ED battles, it is always inspiring and helpful to know that we are not alone.